Sunday, July 30, 2006

Panopticoney Island

I went surfing again on Friday. While I was out there a woman started to call out to me in a hick like voice"let me ride that thing, hey come over here' let me ride that thing..." I looked over, sunscreen stinging my eyes. My instinct was to be nice and smile. I projected a half smile over about thirty yards of breaking foot high waves. Then the ancient instincts kicked in and I started to paddle in the exact opposite direction. A sea monster, I thought to myself with my arms flailing and my forehead pinned to the front of my powder blue nine foot fruity waxed "stick". When I leave the ocean I usualy look down into the inch deep water running in and out over the sand and shells. i allways get vertigo from this. As I was walking out of the water on Friday I saw a perfect circle of minnows about three feet across. When I got closer to the little school it shifted all at once, just a big dot of shimmering fish.


beth maycumber said...

That's right...obey your instincts...paddle away from any and all redneck women ravenously craving to sit upon your fruity, long "stick"...Signed, your ever-loving wife, Beth!

z said...

Ooh, dirty.

We went to Rockaway this weekend. The waves were great & we thought of you. If you come up in warm weather, there's a shop that we can rent boards.

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